Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Vintage 1 Limited Edition
Made by Laurent Ferrier for the Chicago retailer, Swiss FineTiming,
we have the Galet Square Vintage 1 Limited Edition. It’s a play between
vintage dial design and contemporary movement architecture that defines
this piece as a medium between those wonderful horological domains. The
dial features an outer chapter ring and an inner chapter ring, with the
later being applied as opposed to inscribed into the dial, as are the
Arabic hour markers. The hour hand is shaped like an arrow, while the
minute hand is slender and sword-like. At 6 o’clock you have a beautiful
little seconds sub-dial register with circular engraving and an
inscribed seconds counter chapter ring. The brushed finish of the dial
complements the darkness of the inner chapter ring and hour markers,
while the addition of the blue outer chapter ring hints adds another
level of aesthetic that I think does wonders for the appeal of the
piece, at least on a visceral level. The brushed steel case is shaped
like a cushion, which admittedly I’m not a fan of, but it reflects the
dial design and as such a round or square case simply would not look the
part. Turning the piece over and you’ll be confronted with the insanely
gorgeous FBN Calibre 229.01, combining a gold micro-rotor, natural
escapement and the outstanding finishing techniques you’re likely to
find on any LF piece. A superb timepiece that is really very
understated, but at the time carries with it enormous levels of quality
and pedigree.
Check it out
Breitling Colt Chronograph Automatic Blacksteel
If you follow me on Instagram (@haulogerie), then you would’ve seen
my recent post of when I was invited to visit the Breitling boutique in
Sydney City. There I was able to get some hands on tie (albeit, not
enough!!) with the Colt Chronograph Automatic Blacksteel, and hot-damn
was it amazing. Its no secret that I love blacked out watches. The Tudor
Black Bay Dark may very well be my first “proper” watch (unless
something else catches my eye – ahem, Breitling). And this piece really
needs to be seen in the flesh to appreciate its dark beauty. The case,
first and foremost, is a masterpiece. From its angles, to its size, from
its colour to is heft, it is simply flawless, and from what I saw in
the Breitling boutique it really is one of the most comfortable cases
they offer. The dial combines the typical chronograph functions –
seconds, minutes and hours; while the main time-telling function of the
piece is easily differentiated. Add the date-window at 3 o’clock and you
have a superb daily wearer. The addition of the red hints on the
chronograph’s seconds hand tip and the Colt name inscribed in red adds
another visual dimension to the watch, as does the heavy luming adorning
the hour markers and hour/minute hands. Under the hood you have the
impressive Breitling caliber 13, an automatic powerhouse with 25 jewels
that will tick on for a couple days. A beautiful piece from a brand that
has caught my attention (positively that is).
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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time
Jaquet Droz’s distinctive dial design is one of the reasons why I
always pay attention to any news coming out from their small atelier.
When they release watches its like my ears perk up, similar of that to a
rabbit hearing something in the dead of the night. I can’t help it, and
almost always I’m glad to heard it. New from JD is the Grande Seconde
Dual Time, available in three different versions, with my favourite
being the steel case/onyx dial variant. Let’s talk about aesthetics,
because that’s the first thing that will get your attention. Not the
sound of it precariously ticking away, or the feel of the case on your
wrist. No, its going to be its visceral features. Its simple, that much
we can see. We have an uncluttered dial with ample real estate that some
may find boring, while others (myself included) will find it to be
respectful to the art of “holding back”. It’s a wonderful concept that
few manufacturers can pull off, and when they do, respect their art! It
all looks very delicate, from the hands to the slim bezel to the lugs,
everything is respectfully withdrawn and uncomplicated. Then you turn it
over and you see a small window into its beating heart. JD could’ve had
a full-sized caseback window, but again they’ve opted to hold back on
the theatrics and let us see a very small part of the automatic JD
2663H24. Even the rotor looks like a veil, with slits to see specific
parts of the movement. Uncluttered, uncrowned and supremely well
executed, can you now see Jaquet Droz’s appeal?
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Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé
Not something you’re going to see everyday, and really a cross
between full blown skeletonisation and abstained part-dial inversion,
the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé incorporates a unique way of jazzing up a
watch’s dial. Fumé dials are not the easiest thing to manufacture, so
when a watchmaker decides to use one then it usually is worth your time
to have a look at. Being able to somewhat see what’s happening in the
engine of your watch without having to turn it around is a very cool
concept that I love exploring. Skeleton watches are cool, but they lack a
certain intrigue and mystery. Everything is exposed and out in the
open, but with a fumé dial it’s a tad more interesting. Moving on from
the dial, Zeitwinkel have opted to use their in-house caliber ZW 0103
movement that is wonderfully decorated and commands a power reserve of
72 hours. It’s priced quite high, considering the brand isn’t too well
known, but for the supposed connoisseur it would be a viable option to
add to their collection.
Check it out
Bulgari Octo Velocissimo Chronograph
Ever since I discovered their super thin minute repeater, I’ve become
more and more fond of Bulgari and their Octo range. The Octo
Velocissimo Chronograph is another one of those pieces that have caught
my attention with its ostentatious and “out there” case design. The dial
is as typical chronograph-esque as it can get. Hour and minute hand,
with a sub-dial at 9 o’clock showing you the seconds passing by in
real-time, while the chronograph functions lay at 3 and 6 o’clock, with
the sweeping centre-seconds hand doing the time-recording for the piece.
At 4:30 you have a date-window which adds to its appeal as an everyday
watch. It’s a well balanced dial that’s complemented well by the case,
pushers and crown. But, the overly large lugs play with its front-facing
appeal and therein lies its shortcoming. Powered by the everlasting
automatic caliber BVL 328, it’s the kind of watch you buy when you’ve
exhausted all other options.
Check it out
Piaget Polo S
Brand new from Piaget is the Polo S, an entry level time-telling
beauty that has the collective horological world divided. Some call it
blasphemy. Others scream that Piaget have copied Patek’s Nautilus and
Aquanaut shapes and turned it into this amalgamation. One thing is for
sure though, its caught everyone’s attention. Sure, its dial and case is
reminiscent of the Nautilus/Aquanaut, but so what? Are you seriously
going to avoid it like a plague because of those similarities? It’s a
different watch, through and through. Similar yes, but highly different.
Why? I’ll let you work that one out on your own. So now I’ll speak
objectively. Its beautiful, its versatile, and it’s a great entry-level
piece into a brand that is so freakin’ overlooked it annoys me.
Available in either a white, blue or black dial; any of which would suit
me just fine, it’s a step in a very different direction for Piaget. I
once looked at them as a sideline brand. A brand that’s happy to play on
the fringes and not get too involved. But this piece has really shown
the world that Piaget has the guts to bring it to the powerhouses. Add
an in-house automatic caliber 1110P and you have a serious bit of kit.
Want a high end luxury sports watch but can’t see the point in spending
over $20,000? Get this.
Check it out
Girard-Perregaux 1957 Gyromatic
Sun-burst gold dial: check. Well sized steel case: check. Vintage
styling: check. Classically uncomplicated: check. New from GP, and in
celebration of their 225
th birthday, the 1957 Gyromatic is a
modern rendition of a classic piece that really defines GP and their
longstanding legacy. The gold sun-burst dial sits fantastically against
the mirror-polished steel case, as do the hour markers and hands. The
addition of the date window is unnecessary, and if I’m being really
critical (and I am), it breaks up a beautiful dial. At 40mm wide, its in
keeping with today’s size demands, but isn’t overly large. The piece
looks beautiful from the top, and its profile is no different. Sitting
less than one centimeter in height, it will wear wonderfully, and the
addition of the “GP” on the crown adds a nice little touch of nostalgia
to the piece. Powered by the in-house caliber GP03300-0130 automatic
movement visible through the sapphire back, you’re likely to get about
two days’ worth of time-telling when fully wound. Limited to only 225
pieces, which probably explains its ballooning price-tag, it will surely
sell fast. I’m more interested, however, in its used sale price which
I’ll be sure to follow over the next couple of years.
Check it out
Louis Vuitton Voyager GMT
Brand new from LV is the Voyager GMT available in steel or 18k pink
gold. Designed for the modern era of watchmaking, the Voyager GMT is as
polarising as it is different. Its taken some time for me to come around
and appreciate its different aesthetic, but I’m a fan and I can
appreciate what LV are trying to do. Designed and making a GMT that is
different enough to be noticed but practical enough to be used is
difficult. Take any normal GMT. You normally have all the functions
stemming from the centre-point of the watch. Some watches have a
sub-dial. But regardless of their method, they more often than not are
easy to use and easy to read. So combining different with functional is a
hard task, and for that at the very least I take my hat off to LV. Your
current timezone’s time is reflected as per normal in the centre-point
of the piece, while the GMT’s position is reflected by a sliding disc at
6 o’clock. It’s a cool way of differentiating GMT and normal time, and
it really breaks up the monotony of that market space. It’s a simple
concept executed quite differently. A niche piece who’s target market
I’m yet to understand.vedere di piu
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